Wolf Thunder Warrior

While practicing miniature photography, I was reminded of a piece I had worked on over the summer. This is a Wolf Thunder Warrior from Kraken Editions really sweet Alkemy miniature game. I plan on doing a force of their great looking toad figures at some point, but I was really inspired by this particular model so I decided to create a display for it.

Wolf Thnder Warrior

Wolf Thunder Warrior

For the figure itself I was really inspired by the Native American theme that seemed to be pervasive in the Aurlok faction. I kept the colors cool: gray skin-tone, white feathers, blue warpaint. I really like the way the warpaint pattern turned out. I researched Native American warpaint schemes and I found a lot of really great pictures from old paintings and black and white photos, to current pictures from modern Native American gatherings. I did not chose the most elaborate scheme I could find. Instead, I chose a scheme that was simple and bold, and I limited the colors to a single color because I felt that these qualities would make the best transition to miniature.

Wolf Thunder Warrior

Wolf Thunder Warrior

After I completed the miniature I went to work on a display base. I started with an old peanut butter lid (of all things?!?!). First, I roughed up the surface and used white glue to apply a mix of fine and course sand. I selected a weathered stick I had found that looked to me like a miniature log. Some patches were left bare to serve as mud puddles. The base was primed black and then base-coated and dry-brushed the sand up to the highlight level I desired. I then painted the “log” in my normal layering style. I selected a mix of browns to make the bottom of the puddle and painted them directly onto the bare patches. To create the puddle I mixed some brown and green ink and some Vallejo Water Effects and slowly poured it onto the bare patch. It is a puddle so I left the water effects to one layer.

I hope this gives you some ideas of some cool things you can do with the awesome miniatures you have at home. Till next time…

~GPC

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Archaon On Foot (Independent Commission)

Archaon

Archaon

Archaon

Archaon

Here is Archaon “The Everchosen!” This is one half of a independent commission I am currently working on. I chose to paint Archaon in black (similar to the GW sample), but strayed away from the reddish highlights and instead went for a true black.

Painting black comes up often on painting forums, but I think people make it harder than it has to be. This black armor is achieved by progressive layers of black mixed with white. Each layer I only add a tiny bit of white and I try to avoid finishing anywhere near even a dark gray (such as Vallejo German Gray). I build my highlights toward the raised areas where light would naturally collect. This is a time consuming technique but I find it to be effective.

~GPC

Monobot (Four Color Figures Commission)

This is another commission from Four Color Figures Superfigs line of miniatures. This is a Monobot. It is normally a henchmen figure (they are sold 5 in a pack and henchmen groups in the Super System game have a minimum of 5 models), but for the display purposes of this figure I wanted to concentrate on one model.

Monobot

Monobot

Monobot

Monobot

Monobot on homemade plinth.

Monobot on homemade plinth.

With the Monobot I had a strong color scheme in mind. I wanted to focus on warm colors (specifically red and yellow). So I used red as my primary color and yellow as my spot color. I knew I was going to include metallics in this piece (it is a robot after all) so I used the rusty metallic I described in my Obese Anti-Paladin post. The reds, browns, and oranges in that technique compliment the red and yellow. The yellow lens in the head was accomplished by applying increasingly lighter blends of yellow (Foundry Ochre) starting with the darkest yellow in the top right corner and working down to the bottom left. Paint in a curved motion that would follow the glass if it were real. Paint a small dot of white in the darkest area to simulate light shining off the lens. Cover the whole lens with gloss coat (I recommend Vallejo Gloss Coat).

I made the plinth using the lid from an old can of primer. I took the lid and using the same basing material I used on the model (Vallejo Basing Pumice), I formed a ring. I used a base as a guide so I would know the correct size to mold the material. I then primed the plinth and painted it like I would any base.

~GPC

Obese Anti-Paladin (Skirmisher Publishing Commission)

Obese Anti-Paladin

Obese Anti-Paladin

Here is a commission for Skirmisher Publishing. This is their Obese Anti-Paladin, a figure that represents an encounter by the same name in Skirmisher’s famous Nuisances.

Obese Anti-Paladin

Obese Anti-Paladin

This is a good opportunity to discuss aged metal. I used two techniques one for the bronze and one for the iron. For the rusted iron I used a stippling technique. To stipple you take a small amount of paint on a stiff bristled brush. Brush it a few times across a rag or paper towel in a similar method to overbrushing. Then dab the brush in short, controlled, stabbing motions on the area you want to stipple. I basecoated the sword blade and armor with a brick red color (I used Vallejo Dark Flesh). Then I stippled with a mid brown (Vallejo Beast Brown) and finally I stippled with a dark orange (GW Solar Orange). I used an old trimmed dry brush. You can buy a stippling brush from GW, but I have actually found that, for me, it is too stiff. After stippling I lightly dry-brushed on a dark silver metallic (PP Pig Iron). Finally I brought all the tones together with a controlled application of a dark brown wash (GW Devlan Mud mixed with Vallejo Matte Medium).

Bronze however, does not rust. Instead, as the metal ages it takes on a blue-green stain discoloration (called verdigris) in the its crevices. I base coated the bronze areas with a dark yellow (gold type) metallic (PP Brass Balls). I applied a controlled wash mix which includes Vallejo Verdigris Medium which is not actually a color but a special Vallejo mix designed to simulate verdigris. The mix is Vallejo Verdigris Medium, GW Goblin Green (only a dab for some green tones), and Vallejo Matte Medium. After applying the wash and letting it dry I picked out the edges with more PP Brass Balls.

I hope this gives some new ideas for painting old metals!

~GPC

The Blue Monk (Four Color Figures Commission)

Recently Four Color Figures commissioned me to work on a few of the soon to be released Superfigs line. Here is the first figure: The Blue Monk.

The Blue Monk

The Blue Monk

The Blue Monk

The Blue Monk

This is an excellent figure for representing a martial artist (super or otherwise). Obviously it was important to incorporate blue into the figure so I used multiple blue tones (ranging from sky blue to navy). When coupled with white this gives the figure an overall cool tone. Note the way the flesh and white colors triangulate. The use of “spot colors” in this manner is pleasing to the eye. I created the energy effect on the spear blades via a layering transition from blue to white topped off with gloss coat after sealing.

Enjoy!

~GPC

Goblin Painting Company Reboot!

After a failed attempt to get my painting website up and running The Goblin Painting Company returns to bring havoc and fine brushwork to the net. This site will be a mainly a place to display pieces, though I intend to include other content about the miniature gaming hobby. I am continuing to take commission work. Detailed directions on contacting me about commissions and the kind of work I offer is listed under the commissions tab at the top of the site.

~GPC